Visited: Indonesia Year 2008

Indonesia: one of the world's most attractive destinations. In an attempt to increase the number of visitors, the 'Visit Indonesia Year 2008' program rolled out. Now, the year ends this month. How did it go?

The island of Flores in East Nusa Tenggara. Photo by Djuna Ivereigh

Indonesia, with its diverse locales, unique traditions and natural beauty, is one of the world's most attractive tourism destinations. Unfortunately, even with all its potential, Indonesia is only fourth in Southeast Asia's most often-visited tourist destinations. In an attempt to increase the number of visitors, the Indonesian government promoted Indonesia through the 'Visit Indonesia Year 2008' program.

Jero Wacik, Indonesian Minister of Culture & Tourism, estimated that Indonesia’s tourism had started to recover from the previous ‘crisis’ of tourism arrivals. Photo by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati The waves off Pacitan in East Java are just two among the many beautiful places in Indonesia but of which aren’t widely promoted. Photos by Piping

The most favorite tourist destination in Indonesia is Bali. Bali's uniqueness has become known even since the times of the Dutch. Bali's tourism kept developing rapidly until the bombing incident of 2002 caused tourist arrivals to decrease by 47 %. Another decrease occurred after the second incident in 2005. But Bali didn't require long to recover, as in 2007 the increase in tourist arrivals began and the tourism sector regained its normal pace.

In 2006, the provincial government of Bali announced that Bali was awarded the Best Island Destination by Travel+Leisure in New York. It was a polling that was conducted via 30 thousand respondents. To be noted, it wasn't the first time for Bali.

This was indeed a source of pride for Indonesia. Unfortunately, the condition affirmed Bali's place but left other neighbouring island destinations far behind.

The Indonesian government then took efforts to promote tourism in the archipelago in general so that not only Bali got the world's spotlight. By the end of 2007 the Cultural and Tourism Department launched 'Visit Year (VIY) 2008'. Besides the 'even distribution' of tourism, the program also intended to increase social welfare through the tourism sector. Back in 1991 the government launched a similar program but the result was only a small increase in tourist arrivals, around 400,000 from the previous year.

"We have prepared over 100 events all over Indonesia to get more (international) tourist arrivals," said Jero Wacik, the Cultural and Tourism Minister. The year 2008 was chosen because it coincided with the centennial of the so-called 'national awakening,' which also formed the motto of the program.

In the 6th United Nation World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) forum, Jero Wacik estimated that Indonesia's tourism had started to recover from the crisis. In 2004 the international tourist arrivals were 5.32 million, in 2005 it fell to 4.96 million (down 7%,) and in 2006 fell further to 4.87 million (down 2%) before rising to 5.5 million (up13%) in 2007.

In line with the 'Visit Indonesia Year 2008' program, the government optimistically targeted this year's tourist arrival levels to reach 7 million, with foreign exchange value of 6.7 billion US dollars, and in 2009 targets 8 million with a foreign exchange value of 8 billion US dollars.

As of September 2008, the Cultural & Tourism Ministry has recorded 4.5 million tourist arrivals. A third of that number is direct visits to Bali.

I Gede Pitana, the International Promotions Director of the Cultural and Tourism Ministry, stated that the number was relatively high and previously unattained.

From Indonesia's natural wealth point of view, the high arrivals count is as expected. Unfortunately, in the Southeast Asian region Indonesia only comes in fourth place in terms of arrivals. First place went to Singapore with 15 million yearly, second went to Malaysia with 10 million yearly, and third went to Thailand with 10 million.
It must be confessed that there is so much that Indonesia still needs to do. Besides a much more aggressive promotional effort, it needs much more tourism support, namely accommodations, restaurants, transportation, and infrastructure. By now, transport infrastructure in a number of tourism areas is still at a minimum and there is a shortage of professional guide services. In reality there are many potentially winning tourism destinations spread all over the archipelago that aren't even known most of the Indonesian society, due to the lack of promotional efforts.

According to Jero Wacik, only seven of the 33 provinces in Indonesia have self-supportingly and rigorously promoted their tourism, namely Jakarta, West Java, Central Java, Yogyakarta, East Java, Bali, and West Sumatra. The other areas still rely on the central government to promote their tourism.

Since 2007, the government has put up a 'stimulus' budget of Rp 25 billion to five provinces that are considered to be actively developing their tourism. As of this year, there have already been 10 that have received this monetary aid.

In 2008, the total tourism budget was Rp 1.08 trillion. Tourism promotional targets were focused at 12 main tourist markets, namely French, Dutch, British, German, Russian, Japanese, Singaporean, Australian, Korean, Malaysian, and Chinese.

The tourism industry brings a multidimensional effect that opens work fields, suppresses poverty, and becomes a local income source that supports the national economy. Its management needs the government's and private sectors integrative efforts.

This was proven not only by the dedication of the local governments to improve various tourism facilities, ease of immigration services and reliable transport, but also by the roles of the businesses that manage tourism areas and the marketing of unique local products.

"It is time for the local government to put sectoral egos aside and create breakthroughs to develop tourism. One is to develop in synergy close inter-local tourism infrastructures," said Irwan Prayitno, head of the Tenth Commission of the People's House of Representatives.

VIY 2008 is to end this month. But it doesn't mean that the various efforts in Indonesia's tourism follows suit. Gede Pitana once stated that besides the increase in tourist arrivals, another of the important effects of VIY is as stimulant for all areas in Indonesia. We may recall 'Visit Musi Year 2008'. In the beginning of 2009 'Visit Lampung Year 2010' will soon follow, together with 'Visit Babel Archie 2010' and 'Visit Manado 2010'.

Each area has carried out preparations to the maximum. It is a good sign for Indonesia's tourism. And each area has also prepared its own slogan. In one website that promotes Manado (www.visitmanado2010.com) still reads, "Coming Soon. Find The Great Place in Manado." Prepared? ■

Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati

Source : www.baliandbeyond.co.id

'Lithic Lore Lindu

The landscape of pristine lowland forests with its strong greenery will attract your eyes as you approach the Lore Lindu National Park. Hills nearby with hushed valleys are one of the best scenes in the park. Above all, the park boasts its mystery of the Central Sulawesi Empire with hundreds of charismatic megaliths.

The Lore Lindu National Park is situated in Central Sulawesi, and is one of Sulawesi's most important biological refuges. It contains large areas of relatively untouched terrain and varied habitats, which include lowlands and upper mountain forests, elfin woodlands, fertile valleys, rivers, lakes, and hot springs.

Megaliths at Lore Lindu are estimated to be about the same age as the Hindu/Buddhists Majapahit era. Several megaliths are similar to those found in Bali’s Pejeng with various forms of sarcophagi. It is possible that the megaliths in Lore Lindu have a connection with the megaliths in Java and Bali. The tallest megalith stands over 4 meters, but most are about 2 meters tall.

You can reach the park in about 5 hours by car from Palu, the capital city of Central Sulawesi. If you plan to visit the park, several home-stays with limited facilities are available, or you could also stay at a local's house in one of the villages within the park. Lore and Lindu's people are friendly with amazing cultures and traditional wisdom. Christianity is the majority religion in Lore Lindu, peacefully coexisting side by side with several Muslim villages within the park.

In 1993, the Indonesian government declared Lore Lindu a National Park with a total area of about 218,000 hectares. Lore Lindu is well known as the habitat of the Maleo bird. This bird inhabits only in the North, Central and Southeast Sulawesi Islands. This beautiful bird has striking black and white plumage with a rosy pink breast, erect tail and a bare helmeted head. If you're lucky enough, you may be able to spot this bird in its most natural habitat when hiking within the park.

Another amazing feature of Lore Lindu is not only its rich biodiversity but also its important position in relation to Central Sulawesi's history. The park has hundreds of ancient megalithic relics, mostly in the Bada, Besoa and Napu Valleys. Megaliths found in Lore Lindu, such as statues, dolmens and menhirs date back thousands of years. They are considered to be the finest stone monuments of their type in Indonesia.

The megaliths at Lore Lindu are estimated to be about the same age as the Hindu/Buddhists Majapahit era. They even have a lot of similar megaliths, such as statues, dolmens and menhirs. Several similar megaliths are those in Pejeng in Bali with their forms of sarcophagi. It is possible that the megaliths in Lore Lindu have a connection with the megaliths in Java and Bali. Various archeological studies date them as early as 3000 BC or as recently as 1300 AD. The tallest megalith stands over 4 meters, but most are about 2 meters tall.

Obviously, the hundreds that are in Lore Lindu have made the park a megalith field. That is why in 1978 UNESCO declared it a Man and Biosphere Reserve. In the mean time, the Lore and Lindu people are reserving all megaliths in full-respect for their ancestors. For a while, the local government maintained the megaliths as historical assets as well as tourist attractions.

In general, the megaliths in Lore Lindu are twisted from limestone. At the time of the Donggala Kingdom, one of the biggest empires in Central Sulawesi, most all equipment for daily life was created from limestone and some things even from metal. The King and his family's statues and giant bowls were all from limestone. The biggest human statue measured about 4 meters high, and the rest are about 1.5 meters. Each statue has a gender, and the faces are stylized human faces with eyebrows and nose in one line.

But not all megaliths can be effortlessly visited by car, sometimes you must go on foot for about an hour. Still it is worth it, since you will be able to witness the amazing megaliths with all their charisma, as well see the beautiful landscape of the park with the welcoming of the locals. For you who have no time to visit Lore Lindu National Park, you could visit the Museum in Palu. The museum has artificial replicas of all the megaliths, as well as a complete history of the Donggala Empire. You can get all the information you need about the megaliths from the professional curators.

Click here for detail.

One of the interesting stories from this area is about Tadulako. He is a Donggala hero, for he struggled along with the brave Donggala people to claim freedom from the colonial powers. At the time, the Central Sulawesi people gave full-respect to Tadulako and regarded him as their hero. The biggest university in Central Sulawesi and the main street in Palu are named after him.

As an incredible place of stunning forest biodiversity and as a marvelous megalithic field, Lore Lindu National Park needs support for its protection and conservation. It is all for the Lore and Lindu people who live in harmony with nature, as well as one of Indonesia's Kingdom heritage sites. ■

Text and photos by Marthen Welly

Source : www.baliandbeyond.co.id

Moyo and More

The island of Moyo lies off the north coast of Sumbawa in Indonesia's West Nusa Tenggara province and is the main point of departure for most visitors. The exclusive Amanwana invites guests to experience the quietude and beauty of a natural island environment.

Imagine an island larger than Singapore, where the brightest lights are the shining stars at night and the loudest noise is the lapping of waves. Imagine a place where the busiest moment of the day is the flight of the birds into the sky at dawn, and a place where, at days end, you have time to watch each filament of sunlight fracture and disperse across an immense expanse of sky as it turns every color of the rainbow.

The Amanwana encourages guests to experience their surroundings on the land and in the water. The Amanwana Resort supplies guests with everything they need for comfort and relaxation in ‘tents’ the likes of which are rarely seen. Magnificent structures of 58 square meters allow the impact of the luscious jungle to be fully realized from within the spaciousness of your room... and fully explored from without.

Welcome to Moyo Island and the Amanwana Resort. Open year around, the exclusive Amanwana invites guests to experience the quietude and beauty of a natural island environment. The Amanwana Resort supplies guests with everything they need for comfort and relaxation in 'tents' the likes of which are rarely seen. Magnificent structures of 58 square meters, with solid foundations that have expansive waterproofed roofing and interior walls, the neutral colors of the wooden floors, elegant furnishings and modern well equipped bathrooms allow the impact of the luscious jungle to be fully realized from within the spaciousness of your room… and fully explored from without.

The Amanwana encourages guests to experience their surroundings on the land and in the water. Experienced international dive instructors will accompany guests on exotic night dives and reef dives, while novice divers can undergo certification and training during their stay and take their first dive in the Flores Sea, one of the most treasured marine environments in the world. Even non-divers can enjoy snorkeling the reefs that ring the island, observing the marine life amongst the bountiful corals that are currently protected by a stewardship scheme that ensures their preservation.

On land, the Amanwana guides lead their guests on treks from the littoral forests that fringe the beaches into the dense tropical forest where pure spring water runs in waterfalls over ancient limestone plateaus into freshwater pools. Here on the protected 12,000 acre site, the environment is of paramount importance and the Amanwana supports local villagers in the management of the forest resources. Because of this relationship of mutual understanding and benefit, guests can be assured they are contributing to environmental solutions rather than creating problems by their visit. The wildlife that inhabits this lush island includes native deer, lovely macaque monkeys, and magnificent sea eagles.

The Amanwana is also cultivating its own organic gardens where herbs, fruits and vegetables are being grown and contribute to the delightful meals that are served either on the private veranda or in an open air dining room. The dining room has a huge open coconut grill set centre stage, and from there the chef creates mouth watering offerings from a variety of cuisines that include the best in Asian flavors, a particular favorite when dining at night under an umbrella of stars, especially when accompanied by one of the excellent wines from the wine cellar.

Relaxation is made complete by the therapeutic touch of the Amanwana spa therapists, and after a day of nature-based activity there is nothing more enjoyable than to submit to their care.

The shade of tamarind trees shelter the spa, and the gentle whisper of the nearby shore create an ambience that encourages the mind to let go and become balanced.

Every island has is secrets and surprises and Moyo is no exception; the ultimate in romantic escapes lies on a deserted beach. Known as Honeymoon Beach for obvious reasons, this secluded slice of golden sand paradise is accessed by boat and guests, upon disembarking, are left to their own devices amidst the gifts of nature and the gifts of the Amanwana, as picnic hampers, lounges and chilled champagne miraculously await.

Moyo lies off the coast off the north coast Sumbawa Island in Indonesia's West Nusa Tenggara province and has an area of 349 sq km. East of Bali, it is the main point of departure for most visitors. Arriving by boat in the afternoon there is time to become acquainted with the wonderful staff of the Amanwana before a splendidly welcome sunset. It is recommended that guests spend at least five days on the island in order to take advantage of all it has to offer, and most are tempted into spending longer to make journeys into East Nusa Tenggara on an Amanwana Komodo Expedition to discover the habitat of the ancient Komodo Dragon and the charm of the uninhabited islands that dot the crystal calm seas of the archipelago.

Click here for detail.

Most of Moyo is a nature reserve called the Moyo Island Hunting Park that covers 22,537 hectares and is inhabited by wild cattle, wild pigs, barking deer, deer (Cervus timorensis) and several varieties of birds. The island rises to 648 meters in elevation, and its center is composed mainly of savannah and some strands of forest. A marine part in the southern island was established as Marine Park of Moyo Island. These two natural reserves are managed by the Office of Natural Conservation of West Nusa Tenggara as a Technical Operation Unit of the Directorate General of Forest Protection and Nature Conservation-Ministry of Forestry. Its vibrant coral reefs attract many divers and snorkellers.

Another way to visit Amanwana is as a part of the Temples and Reefs package that Aman creates for their guests, taking them from the slopes of Java, the Amanjiwo, and the historic temple of Borobudor to the island of Moyo. ■

Text by Katy Robertson, photos courtesy of Aman Group

Source : www.baliandbeyond.co.id

Refreshing the body and mind in Bintan

By. Simon Marcus Gower , Contributor , Bintan | Tue, 11/18/2008 12:37 PM | Potpourri

Quiet and calm alcoves on Bintan Island, Riau Islands province, are pleasant places for leisurely swims in the sea. (JP/Simon Marcus Gower)

Bintan is relatively unknown, but perhaps this is why it is a place of such great surprises.

"This is just like being in Bali, only much quieter," said a visitor, referring to the picturesque beaches he's spot on.

But in some important ways, Bintan is quite different.

For one thing, Bintan -- a resort island in Riau Islands province -- is a relative unknown next to its internationally acclaimed counterpart.

But Bintan certainly is an international locale. It may be an island in Indonesia but many of its visitors come from or via Singapore.

This is reflected in the fact that most things are priced in Singaporean dollars, which in turn makes the island relatively expensive compared to others in Indonesia.

Bintan sits between Borneo and the Malaysian peninsular, just two islands or 40 minutes east of Singapore.

But Bintan is much larger than its city-state neighbor, however less developed. Save the string of resorts, which has sprung up on its northern shores, the island remains largely untouched.

Most visitors arrive in Bintan on high speed ferries from nearby islands. (JP/Simon Marcus Gower)

Many visitors to Bintan arrive by boat, as "island hoppers", effectively served by a port that brings a procession of ferries from the surrounding islands daily. At this port, a veritable convoy of buses awaits to whisk visitors away to their respective resorts.

The road to the resorts is surrounded by thick greenery; there is little or no sign of human habitation here and at times it feels as though the forests' undergrowth is about to engulf the roadway.

It is only as the buses turn on up the long driveways leading to the resorts that some signs of life begin to show.

Reaching the northern shore, the dense greenery parts to reveal the manicured environs of not one, but four golf courses.

Getting of the bus, the first sounds one hears is the whir of lawn mowers, tending to the greens. Drivers busily buzz around and over the greens and fairways as attendants carefully rake the white sands of the bunkers.

Golf then, is perhaps the most prominent pastime at the resorts of Bintan, but there are plenty of other options for those not fond of the fairway.

Archery facilities, all terrain vehicles for a slog through the jungle, go carts, a paintball arena and "laser quest" zones can all be found along the shore.

In addition to these land-based activities there is, not surprisingly, a range of water activities to be enjoyed.

From windsurfing, jet skis and banana boats to kayaks diving and fishing from a traditional sampan, the waters surrounding Bintan offer something for everyone.

It is possible, therefore, to be highly active in Bintan. But those looking to take it easy also have many options.

Bintan's north shore has long and mostly empty beaches that allow for peaceful walks on simply lying on the sand next to the tranquil water, absorbing some warm rays.

The surf here is gentle and limited, the waters are calm and practically lagoon-like. Dotted along the shore are pleasant little coves offering seclusion in which to take a dip.

This is perhaps the best thing about Bintan -- it is quiet and restful. Thanks to the fact that it does not have the prominence and notoriety of a place like Bali, it is possible to be free of crowds here.

The resort hotels that have been developed here are really quite large and can accommodate very large numbers of tourists.

From the usual centralized hotel with swimming pool and restaurant to beach front villas, the range of accommodation offered is quite diverse.

All of this accommodation spreads out over a large area, so there is no feeling of congestion and/or over-development as there can be in places like Bali.

Many of the resorts exist as entities unto themselves. They are in effect bases for holiday-makers for which there is no need to stray.

Should you, however, crave a taste of the island beyond the resort compound, there are a few locations, worth checking out.

A nearby elephant park allows visitors the chance to ride a real-life Sumatran elephant.

For a peek of the local culture visit the village of Sri Bintan Kampung, where age old crafts and traditions may be observed. The more adventurous and physical fit can trek up Gunung Bintan, the highest point on the island.

Shopping is also on the agenda, at Pasar Oleh-Oleh, where dozens of shops huddled together cater to the tourist market. Perhaps disappointingly though, much of what is on sale here could be found in Jakarta or Bali -- in other words, it is very touristy.

But souvenirs are secondary and hardly necessary. What the visitor will take away from Bintan and its resorts is a relaxing and refreshing experience.

Bintan may not be so famous as Bali but it is well worth a visit, the body and mind will thank you.

Govt asks bloggers to help promote tourism

Jakarta (ANTARA News) - Indonesian Culture and Tourism minister Jero Wacik has asked the blogger community to help promote Indonesia's tourist sites among the international public.

In a prepared speech read by a senior tourism official at a Blogger Party 2008 here Saturday, the minister said ,"The second blogger party will stimulate online network growth in Indonesia. It can make blogs a more effective media to promote tourism."

He said almost all human activities now involve internet facilities so that this type of media was an effective vehicle to promote Indonesia's tourism.

"Today, almost all human activities are closely related to the on-line media. It is necessary to put the mission to promote tourism," he said, adding that he hoped bloggers from foreign countries like Australia, the US and Malaysia can also publicize Indonesia's tourism sites.

"Coinciding with the Indonesia Visit Year 2008 program, we try to make breakthroughs in promoting tourism, including through the online media," said Wacik.

Meanwhile, Director General of the Telemathics Application of the Communication and Information Ministry, Cahyana Ahmadijaya, said that blogging had developed from "blogfun" to "blogprenuer" and could still develop into other aspects of social signifiance.

"We have set October 27 as National Blogger Day. This will be the start of digital community development in Indonesia," Ahmadijaya said.

"The government has given the freedom to people to make blogs. However, we still must abide by existing regulations," State Minister for Research and Technology Kusmayanto
Kadiman said.

"The development of blogging is closely related to technological development. Blogs nowadays do not only play a role in the technology sector but also in the economic and even political sectors," he said, adding blogs were complementing, not replacing, the existing information media. (*)

Indonesia tourism industry still waiting to rebound

Jakarta (ANTARA News) - Indonesia, a vast archipelago nation with the world's second-longest shoreline, has consistently underachieved in the tourism sector and 2008 is proving no exception.

"The global economic crisis has started to have an impact," said Sapta Nirwandar, director-general for marketing at the Culture and Tourism Ministry.

"With the looming crisis, I'm afraid we will not have the expected peak of foreign tourist arrivals in December," Nirwandar said, referring to the usual end-of-the-year surge of tourists to the tropical isles.

Despite record-breaking tourism numbers at Indonesia's prime beach resort of Bali, the country will again miss this year's overall target for foreign visitors, he predicted.

Due to the global economic downturn, the government has revised down its targets for 2008 foreign tourist arrivals to "realistic figures" of around 6.4 million, from initial goal of 7 million.

According to the National Statistics Agency, the three quarters spanning January to September brought nearly 4.6 million tourists, a 12.2 per cent increase from the same period of 2007, or 4.1 million.

Indonesia's tourism industry has been hit by a string of calamities over the past five years, ranging from bomb attacks in Bali and Jakarta, to tsunamis and earthquakes, and outbreaks of bird flu and SARS respiratory disease.

Travel warnings issued by several countries have also taken a toll.

2008 began on good footing, until the latest catastrophe - the financial meltdown in the US and Europe - struck.

"Bali this year had a record number of arrivals and was projected to have its strongest year ever, until the recent financial situation, and we have also been impacted by the recent executions of the Bali bombers," said Darryl Marsden, general manager of the Hard Rock Hotel Bali.

Bali hotels are reportedly enjoying 90 per cent occupancy rates this November and December.

Bali, the gem of Indonesia's tourism industry, was hard hit by the 2003 bombings that killed up to 200 people, many of them Australian tourists, followed by another suicide bombing in 2005.

"The outlook for Bali's tourism industry remains positive," Ida Bagus Ngurah Wijaya, head of the Bali's tourism board, told Deutsche Presse-Agentur dpa. "The main issue in Bali is security. As long as security is being guaranteed, there will be more and more foreign visitors to Bali in 2009."

But no one knows to what extent the financial crisis will impact the island.

"Our peak season doesn't actually start until June, so it's hard to say with any certainty what's going to happen in February, March and April," said Marsden.

The sprawling nation of more than 17,000 tropical islands, teeming with coral reefs, exotic wildlife, volcanoes and inland waterways, is a nature lover's paradise.

Istijab Danunegoro, chairman of the Indonesian Hotel and Restaurant Association chapter in Yogyakarta, the Javanese cultural capital that is another prime tourist destination, foresees a slowdown in arrivals next year but still predicts growth.

"With a better cooperation among related parties and better promotion, the outlook for tourism remains positive," Istijab said, projecting tourist arrivals to increase by about 10 per cent in 2009.

Cultural and Tourism Minister Jero Wacik has also called for greater cooperation within the sector, given its huge capacity to create employment and reduce poverty.

"This industry needs interactive efforts between all parties concerned - the government, tourist players as well as the public," Wacik told the Indonesian daily Kompas.

He acknowledged that the country is losing some tourists to neighbouring countries, partly because of limited promotion funds, inadequate transport and infrastructure, and a lack of professional guides.

"Domestic airlines have so far still been unable to cover the requirement of transporting tourists to the destinations," the tourism minister said. "Moreover, when the Visit Indonesia program again rolled out this year, not many domestic airlines and hotel operators welcomed this." (*)

Mount Lawu, the mythical beginning of Java

Godeliva D. Sari , Contributor , Ngawi, East Java. |

Sunrise seen from Sendang Drajat. (JP/Godeliva D. Sari)

Lawu, which straddles the southern border of East and Central Java, is the volcano for beginners.

At 3,265 meters above sea level, temperatures at the summit can drop to freezing, so bring warm clothes to change into and lighter clothes, which will end up being drenched in sweat, for the climbing. Enough water and energy boosting food is essential, as well as decent boots. With common sense to keep you to the path, you do not need a guide.

A well-maintained track, laid with roughly hewn stones that are reasonably secure, leads right up to the summit. Do not stray off the track as there are many gorges and ravines, covered with vegetation and almost invisible. A crater sometimes spews out toxic gases, so it is wise to check the condition of the mountain with the ranger or the locals at the last village before the trek.

In ancient Javanese mythology, Lawu is called Mahendra and legend has it that the gods who created the first kingdom in Java descended from heaven here. In later history, Lawu was the retreat of the last king of Majapahit, Brawijaya V. On the eve of the Javanese New Year, thousands of adherents of the indigenous Javanese belief - kebatinan - climb to the summit to meditate.

As in other sacred places in Java, names that dot the landscape often echo the ancient Indian epic, Mahabharata. The crater, for instance, is called Candradimuka, believed to be the place where the gods boiled Bhima's son Gatotkaca in molten metal to make him invincible. Bhima is the second of the five Pandawa brothers, who are the main protagonists in the Mahabharata.

A cave called Sigolo-golo recalls the name of the cave that the Pandawa brothers, led by the brave Bhima, escaped through when their palace apartment was burned down by their evil cousins the Kurawa.

Brawijaya V had a fascination with honest Bhima, for in the Karanganyar regency (in Central Java), on the Surakarta side of Lawu, he built two fascinating temples dedicated to him; Candi Sukuh which looks almost Mayan and Candi Cetho.

Candi Cetho was "developed" on the orders of the late president Suharto without any archaeological considerations. Irresponsible and inappropriate development is still irreversibly changing the spiritual sites of Lawu. The current building of a Javanese pendapa pavilion with marble flooring, over a sacred stone in the area near the summit called the keputren - the princesses' quarters- by a wealthy businessman, is but one example.

The shortest route to the summit of Lawu begins in the Cemara Sewu village, between the resorts of Tawangmangu and Sarangan. You can also begin from Cemara Kandang, but the trek is longer and the path is not paved. The distance between Cemara Sewu and the summit called Hargo Dumilah is 7 kilometers. The average time needed to climb to the summit is 7 to 9 hours, but if you are fit, you can do it in 4 to 5 hours. Super fit mountaineers fly up in 3 hours.

For the first two kilometers or so you walk through agricultural land, where the locals plant vegetables amongst charred skeletons of trees that stand as a reminder that this area is prone to forest fires. As you go higher the vegetation changes and if you are climbing in daylight, you will begin to notice that inquisitive, orange beaked, brown birds are following you. These are Jalak Gading (Acridotheres javanicus) and are endemic to Lawu. Unlike other wild birds in Java, these guardians of Lawu are protected by the belief that whoever attempts to harm them will get lost and perish. The birds do not have the fear of humans that animals in Java have (except for city rats).

To reach the summit for sunrise, begin climbing in evening. The advantage of hiking in the night is that the sight of the dauntingly steep hills will not deflate your spirits. It is best to chose a time close to full moon in the dry season. You will enjoy the millions of stars in the sky, twinkling, falling, and shooting. There are five resting places on the way to the summit where you can light a campfire if you need to keep warm while you rest but be sure to extinguish the fire properly before you leave and remember that the best way to stay warm is to keep moving. It is dangerous to wander off the track looking for firewood.

At the fifth resting post, you will find a shack by a shallow well that has a tiny spring at the bottom of it. This is the sacred Sendang Drajat and the freezing cold water from this spring is believed to have the power to make the person who bathes in it attain high achievements in life.

Weary climbers enjoying the morning sun at Mbah Parto's shack. (JP/Godeliva D. Sari)

Mr. and Mrs. Parto live in the shack and they sell food and hot drinks at very reasonable prices considering that they have to carry everything up the path that you have just climbed. Next door to their shack is a cave where you can take a nap if you do not have a tent.

Alternatively, you can walk a little further to the site called Hargo Dalem, where Brawijaya V used to meditate. Mbok Yem and her son Muis also have a warung here, and space to rest.

These two places are good places to rest because the worst is over and the summit, Hargo Dumilah is a mere 0.8 kilometers away.

Down the other way from the summit, there is a flat plain called Selo Pundutan with many Edelweiss blooms. The followers of Brawijaya V used to practice martial arts here.

If you arrive at the summit early, take time to explore the sites around it but conserve enough energy for the hike down.

Bring your litter down because the whole track is filthy with energy drink bottles and various items of plastic waste. It is in everyone's interest to make Lawu clean once more.

Tana Toraja: A journey through Celebes Highlands

Stephanie Brookes , Contributor , Tana Toraja, South Sulawesi

The valley of the butterflies seemed a nice place to spend a Sunday. The valley is nestled in a deep limestone gorge, just an hour from the hustle and bustle of Makassar, and I was looking forward to some peace and reflective solitude with the butterflies.

However, I had forgotten that Sunday means family picnic day everywhere in Indonesia.

By 10:00 a.m., there were already loads of people spreading rugs, juggling rice cookers and playing loud music from speakers.

The waterfall of the "valley of butterflies". (JP)

Luckily the portable speakers (all playing different music) remained stationary and I found an escape route. I followed a small trail along the river, which led to a series of waterfalls, and to my delight I found plenty of brightly colored giant butterflies, which are attracted to this scenic valley.

My journey continued on the long highway leading north out of Makassar — the road that takes you on the timeless journey into Tana Toraja.

The Torajan culture, with its elaborate sacrificial funeral rites and sacred burial cave sites guarded by effigies, has fascinated people for centuries. The colorful hand-painted houses called Tongkonans are beautifully decorated in tribal motifs and buffalo horns from past sacrifices.

Torajan culture is said to date back to celestial time as the Torajan people believe they descended from the stars and arrived in starships. It is believed the shapes of their houses resemble those very starships.

I stayed overnight in the town of Pare Pare overlooking the magnificent Makassar Strait, in a hotel perched on top of a hill that offered fantastic views. I was up bright and early the next day for the long, slow drive into the highlands. About five hours later I arrived in Rantepao, the heartland of Toraja country.

At the summit is a place called Buntu Kabobong, which means “erotic mountain”. Why erotic mountain? Well, laid out before you, welcoming you to Toraja, are two enormous geological landmarks that resemble genitalia. To the local people they are known as “Most Holy Penis” and “Most Sacred Vagina”.

This is the place to where the Torajan people claim their first ancestors descended from the Pleiades in starships. Another belief is that the Tongkonan houses resemble a boat-shaped design to allow the soul of a dead person to be launched back to the stars.

The Tongkonans are built without nails and are slotted together with precision, making them strong enough to last a lifetime. The houses stand on stilts enabling a cooling air to circulate; the stilts double as a shelter for the family water buffalo. The slatted floors allow the animal droppings to be collected and reused for crop fertilizer.

The next day my local Indonesian (English-speaking) guide Sada called into an Internet café to check his email. He appeared five minutes later with a big smile on his face.
“We are lucky, Miss,” he said. “Even though the funeral season is usually June and July there is a funeral in progress only 30 kilometers from here.
“It is day three of the funeral and will be the most interesting day: the day of the animal sacrifice.”

Torajan funerals are held only when the families have saved enough money to host the elaborate event. It is necessary to build a complete village to house hundreds of guests over the five-day period. The temporary village is dismantled afterward. The other major cost involves buying animals for sacrifice.

A buffalo about to be sacrificed, with the traditional Tongkonan houses in the background. (JP)

One healthy buffalo can cost up to Rp 40 million (US$4,370) and a pig can cost up to Rp 3 million. It is not uncommon for more than 50 pigs and several buffalo to be sacrificed. For this reason, the dead body may end up being kept in the house for five years or more to await the accumulation of finances.

One of the traditional villages I visited actually had a five-year-old mummified body in the family lounge. The corpse was that of an elderly woman; her husband’s death preceded her own and the family was unable to pay for a second funeral even five years later.

Some of the preserved bodies are stored in ornately decorated sarcophaguses and if you are a man of royal descent, then your royal widow must stay in the same room as the body until the time of burial. It is also not uncommon for a widow to stay there for five years or more.

The widow must stay with the disintegrating corpse and sympathetically “rot” herself, living on a special diet for the entire period, excluding rice products. She must become symbolically dead and is not permitted to leave her husband’s side. Lesser widows and slaves tend to her needs.

To make sure the soul is not neglected, a bowl of food is replenished daily and palm wine poured plus an offering of betel nut or chewing tobacco is made at regular intervals. The Torajans believe it is only through this intense rich ritual that the deceased will always be “a free soul” and become richer in their next life.

It was already 35 degrees when I arrived at the funeral at 10.00 a.m. Sada escorted me along the 1 km trail to reach the temporary bamboo village, which had been erected for the sole purpose of this burial.

If foreign tourists come to a traditional Torajan funeral it is seen as a sign of good luck. In the hierarchical order of status, a foreign tourist is seen as a dignitary, and therefore treated as an honored guest. I had many offers of coffee (homegrown Torajan coffee), for which the area is well known, local cakes and other sweets.

The Torajan society is a highly structured one, with four classes of people, from the nobility down to the peasant class.

Depending on your ranking in the village, you must offer a certain number of pigs or buffalo, which are then slaughtered and the meat distributed evenly among the guests, depending on their ranking in the village society.

A government official records in triplicate every animal given for slaughter and a tax is imposed accordingly.

When a funeral is in process, family members come from all corners of Indonesia; many of the local guests spoke fluent English. In Toraja a nobleman’s son or daughter will have an assistant assigned from birth to accompany him or her throughout early childhood and into young adulthood.

The animal sacrifice had already begun when I arrived. It took place in a specially designed area where pigs and other animals were hauled in to the “circle of death” and killed with great speed and efficiency.

Blood flowed through the middle of the common area and huge chunks of meat were weighed and divided throughout the day according to the ranking and status of the recipients.
A few bamboo pipes went past me, filled with animal blood, but I didn’t dare ask what they were for, or where they were going. I checked my tea was actually tea.

I felt very privileged to attend this ceremonial funeral. In the afternoon I returned to the luxury of the Toraja Heritage Hotel, a magnificent 160-room 4-star property featuring villas designed in the shape of Tongkonan houses.

The hotel had all the finishing touches including a welcoming meet-and-greet service with cold towels and a relaxing head-and-shoulders massage.

Skulls can be found in many hillside locations, on rocks or in cliff faces, the "graveyards" of the Torajan people. (JP)

Next on the agenda was a visit to several of the death cliffs in the area. This is another fascinating aspect of Torajan culture. The dead are placed in chiseled coffin slots in hillsides, rocks or cliffs.

Some have effigies placed in the open doorways to guard the spirit of the dead body. Others are left open, exposing the bones for all to see.

On day five I decided to take a two-hour drive to a traditional village and experience a homestay with a local family.

Sada made a couple of phone calls and organized an overnight stay in a “real” Tongkonan longhouse in a small village perched high in the mountains.

It was late afternoon when I reached the high road that would lead me to this village.
As it was a school day, a procession of children dotted the side of road. It is not unusual for children to walk between 8 and 12 km to and from school each day.

The children were friendly and inquisitive and tried out their schoolbook English with me. It was a very lively and humorous exchange, which led to a series of fantastic photos.

Though these rural people have very basic standards of living with scarce resources, they are always happy and relaxed, seemingly without a care in the world.

In terms of materialistic acquisition, which many of us in the West aspire to, the Torajans seem happy to live simply, not wanting for much. Their most important asset is a large healthy buffalo.

When I arrived at the Tongkonan house for the night, I had a choice of which attic I wanted to sleep in. I was told the room rate would be a grand total of $4 including a pancake breakfast.

Terraces of rice paddies.

The owners of the homestay cooked a delicious dinner, and I dined that night overlooking the beautiful mountains of Toraja with an exquisite view of the valley below. To enhance the scene, the full moon appeared, bathing the landscape in its light.

It was more than enough to make up for the slight discomfort of sleeping on a simple mattress on the floor and taking a traditional stand-up cold mandi (bath).

The next morning I awoke to find I was above the clouds. I descended down into the misty valley where the next adventure awaited me — white-water rafting.

It was a one-hour walk through a series of rice fields and a small village to the “put-in” on the riverbank. As we paddled downstream, I lost myself in nature.

Only the occasional swooping of eagles soaring above interrupted the quiet serenity of the deep gorge.

As the river narrowed, its energy changed as we passed by a series of large waterfalls cascading from the steep mountainous terrain. The rapids appeared in small bursts, but mostly it was a trip down a lazy river — just the remedy for finishing a spectacular seven-day trip into Torajaland.

For anyone who wants to experience a fascinating culture, set in an exquisite mountain environment, then Tana Toraja is a gem worth exploring.

Who's Heroes?

Some thoughts on the recognition of the nation's heroes and historical personalities amidst poor historical literature and western comic book and Hollywood appeal.

What kid doesn't know about Batman? Hollywood recently launched Chris Nolan's Batman sequel The Dark Knight, the highly anticipated superhero movie, after a successful reboot of the DC Comics franchise three years ago.

The fictional caped crusader of Gotham City got his hands back in action, rescuing Gotham from the grasp of villains and crime. Batman, co created by Bob Kane and Bill Finger, first appeared in May 1939 and immediately became famous. In the late 60's the Batman TV series and movies followed. The pointy-ears-and-a-cape figure was one of many comic book superheroes. Marvel Comics itself has more than 200 characters.

Superheroes are a phenomenon admired by many in both hemispheres. Keywords are 'good, great, liked to help the oppressed, and fighting crime'. It is not surprising then that these figures of greatness are idols that easily find their way into the hearts of people.

Unfortunately, fiction is fiction. And all of the mass-marketed American superheroes are fictional. Any Indonesian... and/or native heroes around?

Based on various definitions, a hero is a remarkably brave person: somebody who commits an act of remarkable bravery or who has shown great courage, strength of character, or another admirable quality.

And Indonesia's historical struggles record many real-life heroes, starting in the 16th century during the Portuguese and Spanish trade monopoly. From the Molluccas comes the name Pattimura. In Java, the Javanese king Sultan Agung led a struggle against the control of the Netherlands. Teuku Umar, a Muslim scholar in Aceh, took part in leading the Dutch expulsion.

In their struggles they used mere bamboo stakes, Kris daggers, and other traditional weapons. No Batman beacon, web swinger, or flying Krypton guy to save the day. But the struggle continued through time and not in the blink of an eye. Many Indonesian heroes fell in the battlefield. Not a few leaders in the struggle were caught, punished and exiled, but the people's spirit of struggle did not subside.

The pastime warriors embraced the popular slogan "independence or death!" which meant that the Indonesian nation would never live unless free from colonization.

"A great nation is a nation that acknowledges its heroes," is the famous slogan. In Indonesia we knew the term from the classrooms. We were expected to honor the heroes who fought in the past and sacrificed for our gaining independence.

In Indonesia, this appreciation is realized on the appointed date of November 10, commemorated as National Hero's Day. On this day in 1946, Surabaya was in commotion because the Netherlands wanted to reoccupy Indonesia and disregard Indonesia's proclaimed Independence on August 17, 1945.

On every Monday morning, students are present in the school's flag-raising ceremony. They observe a moment of silence to honor the fallen heroes. They enter their classrooms of which walls are filled with illustrations and pictures of national heroes from all over Indonesia. They study about the history of the nation's struggle. Later, the early-graders go home along roads named after national heroes. However, once they reach home… and the television set is turned on... children's television hour programs are filled with Western superheroes.

Many people regret this. Most consider it a fad in nationalism. In fact, the sense of nationalism is not measured from the idolized character but from everyday behavior. It is obvious that access to and promotion of foreign idols is incessant. Meanwhile, recognition of the nation's heroes and historical personalities are limited due to poor literature. No wonder Western comic book figures and Hollywood personas win the appeal.

There's nothing wrong with the admiration of fictitious superheroes and western film characters. But we ought to pay respect to real life figures that defend the truth and stand up for the right – the quintessence of the true hero. ■

Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati, photos by Nyoman Ari Gunadi

www.baliandbeyond.co.id

Cheering Independence

Indonesians celebrate their nation's Independence Day through various activities. Students attend flag raisings and people participate in iconic competitions - all in cheers from the struggle to liberation from over 350 years of colonization.

The flag raising ceremony, at the front of Bajra Sandhi and the Bali People's Monument of Struggle. Various types of crowd games during the Indonesian Independence Day celebrations.

August 17... early in the day, activities start to kick off. Students and public service staff prepare at school or at the office for the flag raising. In Indonesia, flag raising attendance is usually obligatory. All are in neat uniforms and hats. Meanwhile, people at home prepare red and white flags on poles of all sizes and place them in front of their houses.

Communities have other ways to show their independent happiness, such as by holding various competitions such as areca pole climbing and cracker eating contests, sack races and tug-o-war.

TO THE TOP!
The contest that is the most interesting is the panjat pinang. Panjat pinang involves climbing a 7-9 meter areca pole that has a number of prizes hung at the top. The pole has been specially prepared by smearing oil and grease on it, which guarantees an interesting sight as the people fight to climb to the top.

Anybody is invited to participate in reaching the hanging prizes. Climbing the pole is not an easy task. Skill is one factor, but cooperation is what is needed to get the job done. It takes five people or more depending on the height of the pole. The first person holds the pole tightly, then the second climbs on his comrade, standing on the first person's shoulder and likewise securing his grip on the pole. The third person does the same, then the others follow until the last person is able to touch and grab the prizes. There are various kinds of prizes attached to the pole, such as leather bags, a radio set, or even a bike. The 'finisher' will remain on the top of the pole and throw down all the prizes, one by one to share with his team.

No one knows the game's origin exactly. But some Chinese Indonesians believe that it came from their traditional festivity called the Festival of Ghosts. Based on Chinese tradition, the thirteenth day of the seventh month in the Chinese lunar calendar is referred to as a day of ghosts, and the seventh month in general is regarded as the ghost month. They believe that during that period ghost and spirits, including those of the deceased, come out from the nether realm.

Among the many attractions during the Festival is something similar to the areca pole climbing. This seventh month often comes around in August or September. Chinese historians have tried to relate this Independence Day feature with the Chinese festival, also due to its occurrence during the same timeframe, which in time became more known as a part of the Independence Day celebration. This hypothesis is not entirely proven, but the influence of Chinese culture in Indonesia indeed began in the earlier centuries.

This panjat pinang sport can be found in Bali, usually in parks and at around noon, as the oil gets really slippery under the sunlight and promises an interesting game. Last year a competition was held on Kuta Beach and was joined in by many foreigners. However, only the skilled Indonesian climbers came down victorious.

PEACE, NOT WAR...
Another popular game is the tug-o'war. In Indonesia it is called tarik tambang or 'rope pull', a demonstration of strength by two opposing groups, often between two departments within a company or institution. And at the center of this 'war' is the thick rope.

There is no specific time and place in history which defines the origin of the game, but the contest of rope pulling certainly originates from ancient ceremonies and rituals. Evidence has been found in countries like Egypt, India, Myanmar, and New Guinea. Tug-o-war in Indonesia might have been brought in by merchants from India in the earlier centuries.

MUNCH AWAY!
This unique game could only be a native Indonesian favorite, as it uses the Indonesia's all-time favorite deep-fried prawn cracker snack known as Krupuk, which is also a popular snack in other parts of Southeast Asia and in China.

The game organizers hang many krupuk on a string, and contestants 'race' in front of the hanging krupuk with hands tied behind their backs. Each tries to eat as many of the krupuk as possible as soon as the game starts, and the first one who finishes them all, wins the game. Simple as it is, but the game surely offers a whole lot of cheers and jeers as the dangling line moves unsteadily with all the participants in motion. Old and young, adults and children, all join in the games together.

A BIT OF HISTORY
August 17 is an important day for Indonesia, as 63 years ago Indonesia's founding father Soekarno read out the 'Proklamasi' Kemerdekaan' text on Pegangsaan Timur Street in Jakarta on August 17, 1945. Soekarno was chosen for this declaration because he was the head of the Preparatory Committee for Indonesia's Independence (PPKI). Now on that exact location stands the proclamation monument, and the name of the road has been changed to Jalan Proklamasi.

Indonesia has a long history. The first and the oldest kingdom recorded on a prasasti or stone inscription is Kutai in East Kalimantan. Along the way, many kingdoms have come and gone. The famous Sriwijaya of Southern Sumatra was hailed in the seventh century as one of the biggest kingdoms of its era. It was then followed by the Majapahit kingdom that covered current Indonesia and Malaysia. This Hindu kingdom saw its fall sometime in the 15th Century and was replaced by the Muslim kingdoms.

The Dutch arrived in Java in the 16th Century, not long after the Spaniards and Portuguese landed in the eastern part of Indonesia. They came for spices, which later led to political expansion. The Dutch often interfered and influenced the rule of kings in Indonesia.

Since most weren't on the same side as the citizens, people began to oppose the Dutch. Teuku Umar in Aceh, Pattimura in Ambon, and Diponegoro in Yogyakarta were some of the leading figures in the struggle. Now their names have been immortalized as names of streets in many cities throughout Indonesia.

In 1908, an organization named Budi Utomo was created as a momentum of the national movement. In 1942, Japan won over the Allied Forces and briefly replaced the Dutch as rulers in Indonesia. But finally in 1945, after the bomb was dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Japan surrendered, and Indonesia used this status to announce its independence. ■

Text by Ni Luh Dian Purniawati, photos by Riyan

Ancient... but Still Vibrant

Discover the island of Sumba in the archipelago's East Nusa Tenggara, a fascinating island of a revealing natural beauty and home to some of the most beautiful people on the planet, who still keep their megalithic traditions alive.

I think the first thing that will strike visitors to Sumba isn't that it is beautiful, although it is, but that it is still so beautiful. That while it is 'discovered' it is also undiscovered, and its pleasures are those of a revealing natural beauty, a graphic raw nature in which Sumba's inhabitants live close to the influences of the sun, rain and wind, of the sea, and the mountains and forests.

The Sumbanese are best known for their Sumba thoroughbreds and their Pasola horseback warrior festivals. Sumba offers an escape for those seeking respite from the rapacious nature of modern life. Incredible waters surrounding Sumba provide great surf, and magnificent dive scenes. map

To glorify them by praising them for not 'moving' with the times or not embracing the advances of encroaching tourism is to miss the point. People from Sumba are not unaware of the rising tides of economic pressure, as they send their children, when they can, elsewhere to receive education, to find jobs and training, so that they can return to the island with beneficial knowledge.

The Dutch colonized Sumba, all 11,000 square kilometers of it, in 1866, although they didn't really take control until the advent of the twentieth century. The pre-colonized Sumbanese lived in tribal groups that included relations from the Majapahit Empire. With the arrival of the Dutch came the religious influences that shaped the islands demographics as they are today, with a small number of Roman Catholics, a strong almost thirty percent presence of traditional animism, and a small group of Sunni Muslims along the coast. This harmonic acceptance is indicative of Sumba, where welcome is important.

Sumba is completely fascinating: Megalithic burials still take place. These stone tombs were used in prehistoric times throughout Europe and their existence and continued construction in Sumba is a living window into ancient history. Ancient history aside, Sumba is also a living window into the recent past of other islands in the archipelago. Sparsely populated and minimally developed, it offers an escape for those who are seeking respite from the rapacious nature of modern life and desire nothing more than to be at peace with whatever nature has planned.

Certainly this was what drew Claude Graves to Sumba over fifteen years ago. As one of the founders of the Sumba Foundation and one of the people behind the Nihiwatu Resort, Claude recognized the need to be able to protect Sumba without suppressing the needs of the people, so they could live in a world where they can achieve better health care and education. Nihiwatu, through the creation of the Sumba Foundation, became a model for genuine eco-tourism, establishing itself in a way that commits to giving more than it takes. By creating a resort that exists in harmony with its surroundings, that offers guests a chance to 'dissolve' into nature while being supported by the indulgences of fine food and elegant care, Nihiwatu has achieved this balance.

A balance that enables guests to enjoy activities such as mountain trekking, bird watching and horseback riding, to fish, to dive, to surf in the incredible waters surrounding the island, and at the same time contribute by volunteering in local activities such as helping out at the school, playing soccer, or putting to use any skill or technical ability that they wish to share. There is also the opportunity for guests to spend a day at a traditional village as the locals go about their activities. None of these activities are 'put on' for show or tailored to the visitor. This is a genuine cultural exchange, and once taken, can never to be forgotten.

At Nihiwatu there is an inclusive family policy, as everyone is welcome. Nihiwatu is a haven for children with safe activities and plenty of fun to be had, but with that added element of the ability to truly engage in a culture that responds to children. One can never predict where the seeds of knowledge will grow but I would take a chance and say that any child visiting Sumba will leave with an indelible memory of a life enhancing experience. I know certainly of two teenaged children that traveled there recently and have returned with open eyes, open hearts and open minds. They speak enthusiastically of the cliffs they climbed, the mud they wallowed in, the horses they rode and the people they met, and at the same time of the need to return to help out with the projects of the Sumba Foundation and to share their knowledge of Sumba, not just with others who could visit but with people everywhere so that they too can be aware that we can all contribute to preserving, protecting and positively helping some of the most beautiful people on the planet: The people of Sumba.

These people live expressively, carrying out their religious ceremonies and their creativity distinctly, creating intricate weavings of cloth that denote rank and wealth and taking part in vigorous and physical ceremonies involving hunting and mock tribal warfare that mark cleansing rituals and rituals of sacred purpose that are intended to abate ill fortune and please the omnipresent spirits. Their traditional beliefs are inextricable from daily life and should you have the fortune to witness a ceremony or village event you too may feel the intense power that comes from being in the midst of an ancient but still vibrant culture. ■

Text by Katy Robertson, photos courtesy Nihiwatu and The Sumba Foundation

Nihiwat, Reservations Office
Kuta PoLeng Complex Block C/2, Kuta, (0361) 757-149
info@nihiwatu.com

The Sumba Foundation
www.sumbafoundation.org

President Yudhoyono to open Asian Beach Games I

Jakarta (ANTARA News) - President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono was scheduled to officially open the Asian Beach Games (ABG) I, an Asian beach sports commpetition in Nusa Dua of Bali, on October 18, 2008.

A release received from the Indonesian National Sports Committee (KONI) said here on Sunday, the plan was conveyed by Chairman of ABG I Organizing Committee Rita Subowo when at a meeting with Bali Governor I Made Mangku Pastika in Sanur, Bali, on Sunday.

"The president has received us twice and the latest was during a cabinet meeting. The president is scheduled to open the event, while the vice president will close it on October 26," Ritas said.

With 17 sports events being competed in the event, at least 45 countries with around 3000 athletes have confirmed their participation.

The sports events also include beach football, beach volley ball, jetskying and takraw.

"We have also obtained assurance about the presence of British and Qatary royal families and a number of sports ministers and the Beijing Olympic Committee chairman as well as General Chairman of the international Olympic Committee Jaques Rogge during ceremony," Rita said.

However security posed a priority during ABG I, especially that it coincides with the first Bali bombing anniversary.

In the meantime, Bali Governor Made Pangkupastika said he would coordinate the security with all relevant agencies in the province.(*)

COPYRIGHT © 2008

Indonesia Muslims begin performing fasting

Indonesian Muslims begin performing fasting

Muslims in Indonesia start on Monday performing their holy obligation of one-month fasting during the Islamic month of Ramadan.

During the month, night clubs, restaurants and other public facilities are restricted on their opening in order to respect those performing fasting in the multi-religion country.

The government has officially declared that Ramadan begins Monday.

"We want to step up unity and cohesion," Antara news wire quoted Religious Minister Muhammad Maftuh Basyuni as saying.

A child stands among Muslims attending prayers on the eve of the first day of the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan at a mosque in Makassar, South Sulawesi August 31, 2008. Muslims around the world congregate for special evening prayers called "Tarawih" during the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan.
In Medan, the capital of North Sumatra province, police ordered all entertainment places in the city to close down during Ramadan and would regularly conduct sweeping to ensure that no one breaks the rule.

Boys fall sleep among Muslims attending prayers on the eve of the first day of the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan at mosque in Makassar, South Sulawesi August 31, 2008.
Muslims account for 87 percent of Indonesia's total population of 230 million.

Source:Xinhua

Visitors to Bali back in waves

BALI has returned to its barrelling best.That's the verdict from visiting surfers and a leading travel agent after a bumper winter surf season since June.

The 2002 and 2005 terrorist bombings in Bali had a terrible effect on surf tourism, but thousands of Australians have returned to the iconic surf destination in the past two years.

According to David Hutchinson, product manager of Sydney-based Surf Travel Company (STC), the Indonesian hotspot has turned the corner towards a brighter future.

"Right now it's booming," Hutchinson said.

"It's running on par to (levels) before the first bombings (2002).

"It was slow for a couple of years after the bombings, but over the last two or three years it's grown by about 30 per cent each year."

Hutchinson said STC booked Indonesian holidays for about 2000 surfers in the past year. About 50 per cent of clients stay in Bali.

Most of the remainder boarded charter boats to explore the popular Mentawai Islands, off Sumatra, or travelled to Bali's eastern neighbouring islands.

This year marked a couple of milestones for Indonesian surfing. Foremost was Bali hosting its first World Championship Tour contest, the Rip Curl Pro Search, at the premier reef breaks Padang Padang and Uluwatu.

The long, spiralling tubes of Uluwatu became a dream surfing destination for Aussies in the early 1970s. "Ulu" quickly became a mythical destination thanks to surf films and photos of the surrounding majestic cliffs, a sea-level cave and a nearby temple overlooking the scene.

Dozens of world-class breaks have since been uncovered around Bali and the rest of Indonesia.

Recent images of eight-time world champion Kelly Slater riding switchfoot in a juicy tube at Padang must surely rate among the highlights of the 2008 world tour so far.

And Indonesia's domestic contest scene has had a big impact on Australian surfers, who supported the series by the busload.

Coolangatta goofyfooter Nic Vasicek wrapped up the series by reaching the quarter-finals of the final event at Canggu last weekend.

Vasicek was among the scores of young Queensland surfers who swamped Bali for the series, and some serious "tube time" at the classic reef breaks around the island.

Recreational riders and surfing families are also happily back on Bali's warm, friendly beaches, although most are avoiding the central Kuta area.

"In our niche market we are seeing a swing to boutique-style resorts instead of the big resorts," Hutchinson said.

"A lot of people are hesitant about staying directly in Kuta, so they're moving up towards Bukit or down into the Canggu region.

"You'll never be able to beat Bali because everyone's dollar is so strong over there. It's got everything from one star to five star (accommodation).

"It's a cultural centre and meeting place for every country on earth.

"Both rich and poor can go to the same clubs and eat in the same restaurants. There aren't too many places in the world where that sort of thing happens."

He said the use of CCTV in some areas of Bali had helped some tourists feel safer, and the effort to help Balinese people get back on their feet had also been tremendous.

"They have suffered horrendously from the bombings," Hutchinson said.

"From our point of view, surfers are quite resilient, they're willing to go to these places hoping that there will be some uncrowded waves.

"And the travelling surfer has brought back the generic traveller.

"Balinese are beautiful people.

"They are very honest and caring and they haven't got a lot of money and they rely on their surfing friends to come back every year."

Some 24 foreigners now in Bali jail

Denpasar, Bali (ANTARA News) - As many as 24 foreigners are currently languishing in Denpasar`s jail for committing criminal offenses while holidaying on the Island of Gods, a local official said.

"Of the number, 18 are convicted prisoners and six detainees," Karobokan Prison chief Yon Suharyono said here Wednesday.

Coming from 10 different countries, the foreigners were mostly involved in drug-related offenses.

They consisted of 11 Australians, four Japanese, two Swiss nationals, one Nepalese, one Algerian, one American, one South African, one Briton, one Hungarian and one Korean,

They were convicted or being detained for drug abuse, drug trafficking and drug smuggling.

The Australian convicts included the so-called "Bali 9" group who had tried to smuggle 8.2 kilogrmas of heroin from Ngurah Rai Airpot, Bali, to Australia in 2005.

Of the nine Australians two had been sentenced to death, six had received a life sentence and one had to spend 20 years in prison.

The two death-row convicts are Andrew Chan and Myuran Sukumaran, those sentenced for life are Michael Czugat, Martin Eric Stephens, Scott Anthony Rush, Tach Duc Tanh Nguyen, Si Yi Chen and Matthew James Norman, and the one who was sentenced to 20 years in jail is Renae Lawrence.

Meanwhile, Australian Schapelle Leigh Corby was sentenced to 20 years for smuggling in 4.2 kilograms of marijuana.

Nepalese Bhisnu Bahadur Tarki and American Derick Arthur Weston were sentenced in the same case as Corby.

Suharyono said the Denpasar prison had 897 inmates (600 convicted prisoners and 297 detainees) and of the number, 403 were convicted in drug cases. Of the 403 drug offenders, 303 were convicts and 100 detainees. Of the 403 convicted drug offenders, 268 were men and 35 women, and of the 100 drug-case detainees, 85 were men and 15 women.(*)

COPYRIGHT © 2008

Visitors banned from hiking on Anak Krakatau

Serang, Banten,(ANTARA News) - Visitors have been banned from hiking on Mt Anak Krakatau (GAK) in the Sunda Strait because the volcano is spewing red-hot and hazardous materials.

"The Vulcanological and Geological Disaster Mitigation Center only recommends visitors to visit within a radius of one kilometer from the eruption center," Jumono, a staffer monitoring the volcano`s activity in Pasauran village, Cinangka subdistrict, Serang regency, said Saturday.

He said the Vulcanological and Geological Disaster Mitigation Center had declared the vulcano and its surroundings to be in a level-2 alert status as GAK was still producing volcanic quakes.

Should the spewing of red-hot materials with 1,500 celcius degrees hit someone it will likely kill the person, Jumono said, adding that this had happened to a Frenchman in 2001.

At present the eruption only happened in the southern part of Mt Anak Krakatau, he said, adding that it had 120 eruptions and quakes throughout Monday, prompting the Volcanological and Geological Disaster Mitigation Center to declare the volcano and its surroundings in a level-2 alert status.(*)

COPYRIGHT © 2008

Rare leopards found in Indonesian Borneo forest: researcher

Jakarta (ANTARA News) - A new population of rare leopard has been found living in thick forests on the Indonesian half of Borneo island, a researcher said Thursday.

Camera traps in Sebangau National Park in Central Kalimantan province have snapped pictures of two adult male Bornean clouded leopards in an area once decimated by logging, British zoologist Susan Cheyne told AFP.

The discovery by researchers from Oxford University's Wildlife Conservation Research Unit and Indonesia's Pangkalan Raya University is the first confirmation the clouded leopard, which is classified as vulnerable, lives in the park.

The discovery holds out new hope for the little-understood species, which numbers less than 10,000 individuals and is the top predator on Borneo island, Cheyne said.

"This elusive species is a good indicator of forest health. Large cats need prey and the prey -- deer, macaques and bearded pigs -- need the forest," she said.

"The clouded leopard is the largest predator on Borneo, there are no tigers. Having the island's top predator surviving in an ex-logging concession hopefully means that the species is resilient."

However, the discovery still only provides a small amount of information about the behaviour and distribution of the big cats.

"With more time and increased number of photos we can start to identify individual cats, look at which cameras they show up on to get an idea of range, and possible range overlap with the smaller cats," Cheyne said.

The forests on Indonesia's half of Borneo island are home to some of the world's most diverse wildlife, but are under threat from plantations and logging, much of it illegal. (*)