Luxury Bali many never see

By Neil Dowling

THINK Bali, think cheap holidays? Not exactly. World-class resorts have made quiet inroads into Bali and are on the expansion trail.

Rarely promoted yet tantalising in its exclusivity, the resort of Amankila – one of three of the prestigious Aman sites on Bali – is arguably the island's finest.

And with room rates to match: from $800 a night, even off-peak.

This is a side of Bali most visitors don't expect and, because of its cost, may never experience.

To reach Amankila we took a chauffeur-driven Mercedes-Benz limousine ride from Denpasar Airport. An hour later we were in a luxurious cliffside villa overlooking the Lombok Strait.

It's a different type of Bali, more international in its flavour and with the accent on cosseting the guest. This often means the walls of the Amankila resort are only breached upon arrival and departure.

Don't expect cheap restaurants and lean-to clothes shops gathered around the front doors, and there is no need to prepare to fend off hawkers who insist you are Mel Gibson's twin brother and your wife is Elle Macpherson, and that coincidence guarantees you'll get the best deal.

Amankila, near the village of Manggis and close to the port of Padangbai, was never lost – it's been there for 16 years – but was nevertheless "found" by my wife, who scoured southeast Asian websites for a luxury break with which to celebrate our wedding anniversary.

Talk about finding a plum.

Amankila is secure and exclusive, on a hillside backing Mount Agung and overlooking the ocean to Lombok and Nusa Penida.

It consists of 26 walled villas, many – like ours – with a pool and views of the ocean. Service is 24 hours, dining is extraordinarily diverse and immensely satisfying, the facilities are among the world's best and yet it's all delivered with genuine Balinese friendliness.

Sadly, such amity is evaporating from the more popular centres of Kuta and Legion.

Despite its serenity, this part of east Bali has a tumultuous past. First, the district of Karangasem was conquered by the Dutch in 1850 and, second, in 1963 the volcano Mount Agung savagely and fatally blew its top.

But from our private villa, high on the hill surrounded by palm trees and invisible to the neighbouring chalets, it was a serene vista over the sea to the islands and the leisurely sight of the occasional ship.

The villas are arranged and fitted out according to your needs and wallet.

Ours came with a 15m swimming pool, courtyard sprinkled with umbrellas and decked with a day bed for curling up with a drink and a book, and a thatch-roofed house that could sleep up to four.

It had a vast twin bathroom, shower area that opened to the courtyard, iPod sound and airconditioning.

Security guards slowly paced the extensive walkways – which, being tiered, up the hillside also served as an exercise track – as gardeners cultivated beautiful plants that thrived in the humidity and kitchen staff, piled high with bamboo and raffia baskets, delivered meals to walled villas.

Suites, such as ours, rate from $1225 a night plus service charges and government tax. You then add on for additional guests – in my case, two daughters – and ancillaries such as most food, all drinks and entertainment.

The bill can be a shocker but there are benefits. The charge includes an a la carte breakfast which allows selection from dozens of items ranging from Japanese to English to Indonesian to healthier options.

Entry to Amankila gives you access to a string of activities. With the right deal you can have one free activity a day, including mountain biking, sailing, scuba diving or spa treatments.

Amankila's Beach Club is at the foot of the hill on which the resort stands. Beachside lounges fringe a stunning 41m swimming pool set beneath coconut palms and a huge frangipani. Swimming in the pool, often deserted by guests in favour of the three tiered pools close to the bar above, was one of my most relaxing moments.

Staff will organise water sports – boogie board, kayak, windsurfer or the Hobie cat – and there's even a lifeguard on duty.

There's also the option of cruising farther from shore in two substantial boats – one is 15m long with a sun deck and is available for morning and afternoon sojourns, and the other is an 11m vessel which can be chartered for cruises across the bay.

The Sunday Telegraph