7.23.2008

IJEN - Jewel of East Java

Separated from the rest of Java by a barricade-like mountain range (until the nineteenth century, then Dutch governor Daendels plan for a trans-Java highway failed to materialize due to this steep mountain range), Bali’s closest cultural sister of Banyuwangi shares similar traditional values with the Island of the Gods. While the region generally embraces the Muslim religion, their daily traditions still portray some elements of Hinduism and Buddhism, the beliefs they held for over one millennium.

Aside from this cultural attraction, Java’s easternmost part has three distinct attractions that discerning travelers will know: The world famous surf spot of G-Land, the world’s largest sulfuric lake of Ijen, and the unique turtle beach of Sukamade.

The “golden triangle” region as it is popularly known, surprisingly is located less than two nautical miles away from Bali. Banyuwangi attracts travelers from all over the world due to these distinct natural gifts.

Last year I was invited to this regency by a travel bureau named Amazing Ijen. What a name, indeed. Where else would the invitation lead to but to Java’s spectacular sulfuric acid lake of Mount Ijen. As I expected, everyone invited was as excited as I was to go where the tour’s name suggested. And truly our expectations were realized by the oval-shaped, 54 hectare lake measuring in diameter 911 meters by 600 meters respectively that revealed a spectacular view of light, turquoise or purplish green surface with distinct smoke coming out from the active side of the ridge. The lake lies at 2, 386 meters above sea level, ensuring a cool daily temperature of from 2 – 18 °C.

Over towering eveything, the Ijen stratovolcano complex has its “Merapi peak” to the east of the lake that rises to 2,799 meters (9,183 feet).

The active crater, which continuously produces hot liquid, helps to change the color of the water from light to turquoise to dark green depending on the amount of chemical substance released to the lake. The color may also quickly change when rainfall cools the waters surface as well as reduces the amount of the sulfuric gas released. Picturesque Ijen is seen a few hours after a rainfall as fresh water covers the surface and the cool water sends the sediment down.

Uniquely, Ijen is the site of labor-intensive sulfur mining. Hand miners distillate the flowing sulfur, allowing it to solidify at a temperature of 150 degree Celsius using pipes which are put on the edge of sulfur canals.

Amazingly too, the sulfur-laden baskets, weighing roughly 80 kilograms (175 lbs) each, are hand-carried from the Ijen floor up to the ridge over a very steep ridge. From this point another hardworking man carries the basket down to the nearby post—a distance of over three kilometers (1.8 miles) through a winding, often difficult foot path. This endless caravan of extremely hard-working men often encourages even a casual visitor to make it to the top. Never give up. So amazing that they manage to do it day after day.

“I’ve taken an eight-month pregnant woman on the tour and she made it to the top, partly because she was encouraged by these strong men. Well, it did take two hours, a little more time than the normal one and a half,” said a tour guide with a smile.

Often the excitement of the Ijen trip is not the finish line of the lake, but rather the way one makes it there, encountering various volcanic scenes and happenings. Hundreds of thousands of hectares of coffee, cocoa and clove plantations cover much of the Ijen area. It is interesting that the world’s finest Arabica coffee, the popular Java, is harvested from these highlands.

Ijen’s coffee production helped the Dutch control the world’s coffee market for the greater part of 19 th and 20 th century. Ijen quality coffee also helped brand the term Java worldwide. Well, some of you may have a cup of coffee (or Java?) logo on your computer program or mobile technology. That is a cup of Java’s coffee... er, Ijen’s Arabica coffee to be precise.

For more information on Ijen contact Banyuwangi Tourism Office (0333) 422128, or directly to its helpful spokesperson Hariyono (08155905197). You may also contact Amazing Ijen, Jalan Gunung Sari, Denpasar , (0361) 488-876

By Supardi Asmorobangun

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